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The Cameo Cardigan Adult Size XL/2XL Crochet Pattern is the third pattern of the adult series. Stay tuned for child sizes. It is a comfy cardi that is made with worsted weight yarn. It is fairly simple using basic crochet stitches and NO SEWING!! See notes and photos for how to join the shoulders and borders as you work them.
The Cameo Cardigan comes in Adult XS/S 0-6, Medium/Large 8-12, and this size the XL/2XL 14-20. The cardigan is roomy and a little over sized. Fit and stretch can really depend on yarn used. The photos below are Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn in Ivory Tweed and Antique Teal and Red Heart With Love’s Cameo. ILTY will give the cardi more stretch and relax more after washing. The RHWL is a more dense yarn and did not relax as much. My testers used a variety of yarns such as Loops & Threads Impeccable, Premiere Everyday, Caron One Pound and RHWL which all worked well.
Do not let crocheting clothing intimidate you! The pattern is fairly simple. Be sure to check your gauge before starting and adjust your hook as needed. Yarn used and your tension could change the fit. The measures are included for the length and total width of the pattern. I’m here to help in any way! Contact me by emailing jessica@crochetitcreations.com, on social media, joining my Facebook group, or contact below this post.
Find the XS/S Adult size here
Find the Medium/Large size here
Find the CHILD Large 10/12 size here
Find the CHILD Small 6/8 here
Find the Preschool 3/5 here
Find the Toddler 1/2 here
Find the Baby size here
Purchase the ad-free printable version of all the Adult and Child sizes on Ravelry here for a small fee. I greatly appreciate every single pattern purchase, which helps keep this blog going and allowing me to continue offering/designing free patterns.
Need help with the Cameo Cardigan? See Part 1 of 2 video here from start to completing the body of the cardigan. Find Part 2 of 2 video tutorial of the sleeves part
Materials Needed
- K 6.5mm Crochet Hook, or hook to obtain gauge
- Worsted Weight #4 yarn – approx 1500 yards for XL/2XL size
- Scissors
- Tapestry/Finishing Needle
- Optional: Stitch Markers
Stitches Used
- Dc – double crochet
- Hdc – half double crochet
- Sc – single crochet
- Sl St – slip stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- Join – slip stitch to first st
- Foundation sc, see here how to make foundation rows
Gauge
- 4” x 4” square = 9 rows of the pattern (5dc rows, 4sc rows) x 12 stitches. I HIGHLY recommend doing a gauge swatch and matching accordingly.
Pattern Notes & Tips
- Cameo Cardigan is made to be oversized and comfy. The K hook makes looser stitches. You will get some stretch and it will relax more after washing.
- Pattern is written in U.S. Crochet Terms
- Beginning chain(s) of the row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
- Fit will also depend on yarn used. A less dense yarn (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn, which is in the photo above of Ivory Tweed) will stretch more. A more dense yarn (Red Heart With Love, the pink Cameo color in the photos on pg 2) will not stretch as much. My gauge was the same for both these yarns.
- Pattern is worked in vertical continuous rows of the front right panel, back panel, and left front panel. No finishing off on these rows.
- I am a fan of no sew patterns! This pattern will be joining the shoulders to the front or back panels and the border to close as you work them.
- On the rows that join at the shoulders, border, or cuffs, turn the work left OVER right. This will keep your next stitch from being twisted. Also, re-adjust the tension on your hook after turning. If you find it hard to see where to place your next join, you could use stitch markers before turning.
- Count your stitches on EACH row! This is one of the most important parts of the pattern. The stitch count is in parentheses at the end of each row.
- Check your gauge BEFORE starting the Cameo Cardigan. We all hate gauge swatches, but it’s important when making clothing. If you are getting more stitches/rows per 4” than the gauge, go up a hook size. If you are not getting enough stitches/rows, then go down a hook size.
- When joining on the sleeve rows, pull your slip stitches tight. This will make the joins less visible. Actually, as a general rule for crocheting, always pull your slip stitches tight. You’ll be amazed at what difference this will make in your work.
- Work the first st in the same st as the join and the ch-1/ch-2, since the chains do not count as a stitch. This will keep your seam straight on the sleeves.
- To secure tails when changing skeins or colors, crochet over the tail then leave a few inches out. Go back and weave in the ends going the opposite direction. This will keep the tails from unraveling.
Adult Extra Large/2XL
For size 14-20 or bust 39″-45″. Finished measures 29”L x 44” around, not including border that overlaps
Front right panel
Row 1: Foundation sc 84. (84) ch 2 and turn. See here how to make foundation rows.
Row 2: dc in each st across. (84) ch 1 and turn
Row 3: sc in each st across (84) ch 2 and turn
Row 4 – 14: Repeat rows 2 & 3 (84) *ending with dc row
Pocket Row
Row 15: sc in 19 stitches, ch 15, skip 15 stitches, sc in remaining 50 stitches. (84, including chains) ch 2 and turn
Row 16: dc in each st across, including each chain. (84) ch 1 and turn.
Row 17: sc in each st across. (84) ch 2 and turn
Row 18 – 20: Repeat rows 16 & 17
Arm Hole Row
Row 21: sc in 55 stitches, ch 29, skip remaining 29 stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 20. (84, including chains)
You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.
Back Panel
Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 20. This will count as ch 2 for row 22. Turn.
Row 22: dc in 29 chains and each st across. (84) ch 1 and turn
Row 23: sc in each st across. (84) join to the side of the sc from row 19 of the front panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of front panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.
Row 24: dc in each st across. (84) ch 1 and turn
Row 25 – 41: repeat rows 23 & 24
Join after row 41 to last row’s sc from the foundation row. ch 2 and turn
Row 42: dc in each st across. (84) ch 1 and turn
Row 43: sc in each st across (84) ch 2 and turn.
Row 44 – 74: repeat rows 42 & 43. Ending with dc row
Arm Hole Row
Row 75: sc in 55 stitches, ch 29, skip remaining 29 stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 74. (84, including chains)
You will now be working the other front panel and slip stitching to the back panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.
Front Left Panel
Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 74. This will count as ch 2 for row 76. Turn.
Row 76: dc in 29 chains and each st across. (84) ch 1 and turn
Row 77: sc in each st across. (84) join to the side of the sc from row 75 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.
Row 78: dc in each st across. (84) ch 1 and turn
Row 79 – 80: Repeat rows 77 & 78
Pocket Row
Row 81: sc in 19 stitches, ch 15, skip 15 stitches, sc in remaining 50 stitches. (84, including chains) join to the side of the sc from the next row back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.
Row 82: dc in each st across, including each chain. (84) ch 1 and turn.
Row 83: sc in each st across. (84) join to the side of the sc from row 65 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.
Row 84 – 95: Repeat rows 82 & 83 ending with sc row and 1 sl st to side of sc to join shoulder. There will be 13 rows at the neck that will be left “open”. Finish off
Neck/Front Border
Join to the inside corner of the right front panel. Band is made in horizontal rows, joining to the stitches of the front and back panels to continue the no sew of the pattern.
Chain 21
Row 1: hdc in each chain across in the back bump of the chain. See here how and why to crochet on the back of the chain. (20) join to next st of row 95, pull sl st tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.
Row 2: hdc in BLO of 19 st, hdc in both loops of last st. (20) ch 1 and turn
Row 3: hdc in BLO of each st across. (20) join to next st, pull tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 up the front right panel, across the neck, and down the front left panel. Continue the same concept of joining the shoulder for attaching the border around the neck – sl st 1 in sc rows and 2 in ch-2 of dc row.
Last row should end at corner of front left panel. DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to bottom border. If for some reason yours ends on the inside of the border, finish off and attach to the corner of the front left panel.
Bottom Border
Ch 1 and turn to work across the bottom border.
Row 1: ch 1, sc across the 20 hdc. Sc across bottom placing 2 sc at the end of dc rows, 1 sc at the end of sc rows. 1 sc across the other 20 sc. Finish off
Garment is now essentially reversible since every row has been back and forth. They look the same on either side. Choose the side of your liking before starting on the sleeves. You may notice that one side of the joins at the shoulders look “bumpy” from the slip stitches. I prefer to have those on the inside.
Sleeves
Join with slip stitch to bottom of sleeve hole.
Row 1: ch 1, sc 58 times in arm hole. (58) join
Row 2: ch 2, dc2tog, dc in remaining st around (57) join
Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (56) join.
Row 4 – 13: repeat row 2 & 3 (ends with 46st at row 15)
Row 14: ch 2, dc around. Join (46)
Row 15 – 38: repeat rows 3 & 14. It will end on dc row with 34 stitches.
Row 39: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (34) Do not finish off.
*For shorter sleeves, end at row 37. For longer sleeves add 2 additional rows.
Sleeve Band –
Band works around like a cuff. We will continue the “no sew” of this pattern by joining to row 39.
Ch 7
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, working in the back bump of the chain. (6) join to 2nd sc from row 39, pull join tight. Sl st to next 2 sc. (3 sl st total) turn
Row 2: sc BLO across the band. (6) ch 1 and turn
Row 3: sc BLO across band. (6) join to next sc from row 39, pull join tight. Sl st to next 2 sc. (3 sl st total)
Row 4 – 22: repeat row 2 and 3 ending with sl st in last st from row 39.
Fold cuff down. Close the cuff by sl st across row 22 and 1 from the inside. To continue the BLO ribbing look and keep the join from not being noticeable, sl st in both loops of row 22 and front loop of row 1 where you worked in the “back bump” of the chain. When you fold the cuff back up, you will have even rows of ribbing. Finish off. Weave in ends.
Pockets
From the inside pocket opening of the front panel, join to the top of the corner.
Row 1: ch 1, sc 30 times around opening. Join. (30)
Row 2: ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (30)
Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (30)
Row 4 – 13: repeat rows 2 & 3
Close the pocket – Fold the pocket in half, sl st the first st and last st together of row 13. Sl st to second st and second to last st together. repeat across to close pocket. Finish off leaving about 5” tail. Sew the bottom corner of the pock to the inside of the front panel. Weave in all ends.
You may want to add a button to the inside of the pocket to keep items from falling out. I hope you enjoy this pattern as much as I do!!
Find the XS/S Adult size here
Find the Medium/Large size here
Find the CHILD Large 10/12 size here
Find the CHILD Small 6/8 here
Find the Preschool 3/5 here
Find the Toddler 1/2 here
Find the Baby size here
Purchase the ad-free printable version of all the Adult and Child sizes on Ravelry here for a small fee. I greatly appreciate every single pattern purchase, which helps keep this blog going and allowing me to continue offering/designing free patterns.
Save for later or share with others using the share buttons at the top and bottom of post. If you have any questions please comment below or you can email me at jessica@crochetitcreations.com.
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I started making this but it doesn’t seem like it will be long enough. What if I added like 8-10 stitches
Hi Nancy! You most definitely can add to the length in the beginning or do a border across the bottom after. It will relax after you finish and wash or steam block.
What if I don’t want the pockets? Would you just continue as with the first 14 rows?
Yes. You could always add outside pockets later if you wanted
So my front panels and back panel are not lined up exactly. Any advice?
Natasha, sometimes row counts can get off when working a large project. Sometimes I recount many times and finally see the error. Want to send me a pic? You can join my Facebook group and tag me. Or send via email.
I like the idea of no sew patterns as well, but I have to tell you, the blasted slip stitches on this one are infuriating. I have had to rip out rows repeatedly because on the DC row it will be 84 stitches, and then on the return SC row, no matter what I do, it will be 83 or 85 stitches!
I’m actually at the point of cussing at this pattern over it, and I’m about THIS clise to ripping out the entire back panel and doing it with a single row-to-row sl. st. because as you have it written, no matter what I do, I can not get the stitch counts right more than two rows at a time. I’m actually beyond fed up with it. Going into the same spots in one direction should get me the same number of stitches as in the first direction when the stitch count was correct – and yet that is not happening. At all. The photos are not helping, either. It just makes no sense.
I appreciate the intent of making it easier, but I think the 3 sl. st at the shoulder is just making it hard to place the correct stitch, and hard to get a nice seam. My sl. stitches are alwaus pulled tight and the seam is still a mess, on top of being impossible to maintain correct stitch counts on every row. It’s pure guessing game. Sewing at this point would have been simpler and faster and a lot more intuitive – this is making me crazy, and there’s no logical reason for the stitch count to be this blasted hard to maintain.
I appreciate the pattern – I know how much work goes into getting these written down and checked for readability etc. But I think I’m going to have to rip out the entire back panel and adjust how the slip stitching is done – this current method is infuriating. LOL
Hello! I appreciate your thoughts. It’s though having difficulty with a pattern.
One option would be to not do the joins at the shoulder. Just continue as a large rectangle with arm holes. Then you could fold the front panels in and sew them at the shoulders.
I recently wrote a pattern and published it that is worked as a long rectangle with arm holes and it’s sewed at the shoulders. It’s called the Savy Shrug and on crochetitcreations.com if you are interested in seeing the photos in it.
Joining at shoulder seams or sewing the shoulders after work just as well. I hope this help!
Take care,
Jessica
Hi Jessica! Thanks for the response.
What I have found, is that the issue here is with the multiple slip stitches. I have taken out the back panel multiple times now.
At this point, I’m just doing a single slip stitch to join at the shoulder. It looks neater, it’s holding tighter, I don’t get the holes that the 3 slip stitches were leaving when going from the third slip stitch to the furst DC. And it seems to be more secure.
The rest of the pattern is working beautifully. It’s just these shoulder joins that were simply not working for me no matter what the heck I did. LOL.
I loooove this pattern! It was simple to follow and SO WELL DESIGNED (in stark contrast to many others I tried that just seemed difficult for no good reason LOL). I have officially graduated from hats 🙂 and made some thing wearable and beautiful thanks to you. I searched all over for a chocolate cardigan in the stores and could not find one. Now I have exactly what I was searching for and am already starting on a second one for my mom with (with buttons). Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Do you have a video of this. It’s easier to follow a video! Please make a video!!
I have a video of the baby size https://youtu.be/NNfpwU20OEk