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The Cameo Cardigan Crochet Pattern comes in 3 adult sizes, XS/S, Med/Lg, and XL/2XL. Why are do the sizes say 2 different sizes? Because it is made slightly over sized and could fit a range of different sizes. It’s also great for layering. You could wear a long sleeve shirt under and be comfortable.

The model in the photos is 5’2 and wears a size 0/2. The cardigan will relax after washing and be slightly longer. The XS/S size will fit approximately size 0-6. If you would prefer a longer cardigan, you can add stitches to your foundation row.

I wear about an 8 dress size (maybe a 10…it’s been a while since I’ve tried on a dress, ha!) and made the Medium/Large size. It’s super comfy and I love wearing it. I tried on the XS/S when making the model item and it fit me as a true fit. The arms were snug, so I would add a few stitches or not decrease the top of the sleeve.

The Cameo Cardigan is named after Red Heart With Love’s gorgeous Cameo color!! It’s a perfect rose color! Rose gold is so popular right now and it goes well with everything!! I also saw a similar color at Hobby Lobby called Rosy Cheeks.

Do NOT let crocheting clothing intimidate you!!! This pattern is made with basic crochet stitches. All you need is basic crochet knowledge and a little know how on following a crochet pattern. Read all pattern notes before starting. If you have questions, just let me now! There are many ways to reach me: email, comment below, social media, etc.

I try to cut corners with crocheting when able and one corner I always try to cut is to get away from sewing. If I can join or slip stitch on a pattern instead of sewing, I’m going to do it! There is NO SEWING at all in this pattern! The only reason you would need a needle is to weave in those ends! YAY!!!!

Find the Medium/Large size here

Find the XL/2XL size here 

Find the CHILD Large 10/12 size here 

Find the CHILD Small 6/8 size here 

Find the Preschool 3/5 here

Find the Toddler 1/2 Here

Find the Baby Size here

Purchase the ad-free printable version of the Adult and Child sizes on Ravelry here for a small fee. I greatly appreciate every single pattern purchase, which helps keep this blog going and allowing me to continue offering/designing  free patterns.

Need help with the Cameo Cardigan? See Part 1 of 2 video here from start to completing the body of the cardigan.  See Part 2 of 2 here which completes the sleeves

Materials Needed

• K 6.5mm Crochet Hook, or hook to obtain gauge
• Worsted Weight #4 yarn – approx 1000 yards for XS/Sm size
• Scissors
• Tapestry/Finishing Needle
• Optional: Stitch Markers

Stitches Used

• Dc – double crochet
• Hdc – half double crochet
• Sc – single crochetS
• Sl St – slip stitch
• BLO – back loop only
• Join – slip stitch to first st
• Foundation sc, see here how to make foundation rows

Gauge

• 4” x 4” square = 9 rows of the pattern (5dc rows, 4sc rows) x 12 stitches. I HIGHLY recommend doing a gauge swatch and matching accordingly.

Pattern Notes & Tips

1. Cameo Cardigan is made to be oversized and comfy. The K hook makes looser stitches. You will get some stretch and it will relax more after washing.
2. Pattern is written in U.S. Crochet Terms
3. Beginning chain(s) of the row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
4. Fit will also depend on yarn used. A less dense yarn (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn, which is in the photo above of Ivory Tweed) will stretch more. A more dense yarn (Red Heart With Love, the pink Cameo color) will not stretch as much. My gauge was the same for both these yarns.  
5. Pattern is worked in vertical continuous rows of the front right panel, back panel, and left front panel. No finishing off on these rows.
6. I am a fan of no sew patterns! This pattern will be joining the shoulders to the front or back panels and the border to close as you work them.
7. On the rows that join at the shoulders, border, or cuffs, turn the work left OVER right. This will keep your next stitch from being twisted. Also, re-adjust the tension on your hook after turning. If you find it hard to see where to place your next join, you could use stitch markers before turning.
8. Count your stitches on EACH row! This is one of the most important parts of the pattern. The stitch count is in parentheses at the end of each row.
9. Check your gauge BEFORE starting the Cameo Cardigan. We all hate gauge swatches, but it’s important when making clothing. If you are getting more stitches/rows per 4” than the gauge, go up a hook size. If you are not getting enough stitches/rows, then go down a hook size.
10. When joining on the sleeve rows, pull your slip stitches tight. This will make the joins less visible. Actually, as a general rule for crocheting, always pull your slip stitches tight. You’ll be amazed at what difference this will make in your work.
11. Work the first st in the same st as the join and the ch-1/ch-2, since the chains do not count as a stitch. This will keep your seam straight on the sleeves.
12. To secure tails when changing skeins or colors, crochet over the tail then leave a few inches out. Go back and weave in the ends going the opposite direction. This will keep the tails from unraveling. 

Adult Extra Small/Small Size

(Pink Cardi using Red Heart With Love Cameo) – Size 0-6 or bust 30”-34”. Measures 28”Lx35” around, using approximately 1000 yards

Front right panel

Row 1: Foundation sc 80. (80) ch 2 and turn. See here how to make foundation rows.

Row 2:  dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: sc in each st across (80) ch 2 and turn

Row 4 – 12: Repeat rows 2 & 3 (80) *ending with dc row

Pocket Row

Row 13: sc in 15 stitches, ch 15, skip 15 stitches, sc in remaining 50 stitches. (80, including chains) ch 2 and turn

Row 14: dc in each st across, including each chain. (80) ch 1 and turn.

Row 15: sc in each st across. (80) ch 2 and turn

Row 16: dc in each st across (80) ch 1 and turn

Arm Hole Row

Row 17: sc in 58 stitches, ch 22, skip remaining stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 16. (80, including chains)

You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row. 

Back Panel

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 16. This will count as ch 2 for row 18. Turn.

Row 18: dc in 22 chains and each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 19: sc in each st across. (80) join to the side of the sc from row 15 of the front panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of front panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work. 

Row 20: dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 21 – 33: repeat rows 19 & 20

Join after row 33 to last row’s sc of the front panel (the foundation row). ch 2 and turn

Row 34: dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 35: sc in each st across (80) ch 2 and turn.

Row 36 – 56: repeat rows 34 & 35. Ending with dc row

Arm Hole Row

Row 57: sc in 58 stitches, ch 22, skip remaining stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 56. (80, including chains)

You will now be working the other front panel and slip stitching to the back panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row. 

Front Left Panel

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 56. This will count as ch 2 for row 58. Turn.

Row 58: dc in 22 chains and each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 59: sc in each st across. (80) join to the side of the sc from row 55 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. (3 sl st total) This will count as ch 2. Turn your work.

Row 60: dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Pocket Row

Row 61: sc in 15 stitches, ch 15, skip 15 stitches, sc in remaining 50 stitches. (80, including chains) join to the side of the sc from the next row back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. (3 sl st total) This will count as ch 2. Turn your work.

Row 62: dc in each st across, including each chain. (80) ch 1 and turn.

Row 63: sc in each st across. (80) join to the side of the sc from next row of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.

Row 64 – 73: Repeat rows 62 & 63 ending with sc row and 1 sl st to side of sc to join shoulder. There will be 7 rows at the neck that will be left “open”. Finish off                                

Neck/Front Border

Join to the inside corner of the right front panel. Band is made in horizontal rows, joining to the stitches of the front and back panels to continue the no sew of the pattern. 

Chain 17

Row 1: hdc in each chain across in the back bump of the chain. See here how and why to crochet on the back of the chain. (16) join to next st of row 73, pull sl st tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.

Row 2: hdc in BLO of 15 st, hdc in both loops of last st. (16) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: hdc in BLO of each st across. (16) join to next st, pull tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 up the front right panel, across the neck, and down the front left panel. Continue the same concept of joining the shoulder for attaching the border around the neck – sl st 1 in sc rows and 2 in ch-2 of dc row.

Last row should end at corner of front left panel. DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to bottom border. If for some reason yours ends on the inside of the border, finish off and attach to the corner of the front left panel.

Bottom Border

Ch 1 and turn to work across the bottom border.  

Row 1: ch 1, sc across the 16 hdc. Sc across bottom placing 2 sc at the end of dc rows, 1 sc at the end of sc rows. 1 sc across the other 16 sc. Finish off 

Garment is now essentially reversible since every row has been back and forth. They look the same on either side. Choose the side of your liking before starting on the sleeves. You may notice that one side of the joins at the shoulders look “bumpy” from the slip stitches. I prefer to have those on the inside. Or you could keep it as a vest and go on to the pockets

Sleeves

Join with slip stitch to bottom of sleeve hole. 

Row 1: ch 1, sc 44 times in arm hole. (44) join

Row 2: ch 2, dc around. (44) join

Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (43) join

Row 4: ch 2, dc around. (43) join

Row 7 – 38: repeat rows 3 & 4. It will end on dc row with 26 stitches.

Row 39: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (26) Do not finish off.

*For shorter sleeves, end at row 37. For longer sleeves add 2 additional rows.

Sleeve Band

Band works around like a cuff. We will continue the “no sew” of this pattern by joining to row 39.

Ch 7

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, working in the back bump of the chain. (6) join to 2nd sc from row 39, pull join tight. Sl st to next 2 sc. (3 sl st total) turn

Row 2: sc BLO across the band. (6) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: sc BLO across band. (6) join to next sc from row 39, pull join tight. Sl st to next 2 sc. (3 sl st total)

Row 4 – 17: repeat row 2 and 3 ending with sl st in last st from row 39.

Fold cuff down. Close the cuff by sl st across row 17 and 1 from the inside. To continue the BLO ribbing look and keep the join from not being noticable, sl st in both loops of row 17 and back loop of row 1 where you worked in the “back bump” of the chain. When you fold the cuff back up, you will have even rows of ribbing. FInish off. Weave in ends.

Pockets

From the inside pocket opening, join to the corner of the TOP of the pocket. 

Row 1: ch 1, sc 30 times around opening. Join. (30)

Row 2: ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (30)

Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (30)

Row 4 – 13: repeat rows 2 & 3

Close the pocket – Fold the pocket in half, sl st to first st and last st togethr of row 13. Sl st to second st and second to last st together. repeat across to close pocket. Finish off leaving about 5” tail. Sew the bottom corner (or corners) of the pock to the inside of the front panel. I have found that due to the angle of the pockets my phone doesn’t stay in well. You can attach a button to the inside to help. 

Weave in all ends.

See the Medium/Large Adult 8-12 Size here.

Find the XL/2XL size here 

Find the CHILD Large 10/12 size here 

Find the CHILD Small 6/8 here

Find the Preschool 3/5 here

Find the Toddler 1/2 Here

Find the Baby Size here 

Purchase the ad-free printable version of the Adult and Child Sizes on Ravelry here for a small fee. I greatly appreciate every single pattern purchase, which helps keep this blog going and allowing me to continue offering/designing  free patterns. I hope you enjoy!

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