Jessica Cooper If you have been making the Cameo Cardigan for the little ones in your life, most likely you will also want to make this Doll Size of the Crochet Pattern. It is made to fit an 18″ doll, like an American Girl. And is perfect for them to have matching outfits.
When I was designing the Cameo Cardigan patterns, I started with adult size. But I knew that I would need to create child sizes so that I could make them for my 2 girls. Well, they immediately asked if their dolls could have a cardigan also. So, they asked and here it is! The Doll Sized version of the Cameo Cardigan.
- Find the other Cameo Cardigan patterns below
- Find the Adult XS/S Women’s 0-6 Size here
- Find the Adult Medium/Large Women’s 8-12 Size here
- Find the Adult XL/2XL Women’s 14-20 Size here
- Purchase the Ad-Free, Printable PDF of the Adult and Child sizes together from Ravelry here
- Find the Child Size Large 10/12 here
- Find the Child Small 6/8 size here
- Find the Preschool Size 3/5 here
- Find the Toddler Size 1/2 here
Materials Needed
- K 6.5mm Crochet Hook, or hook to obtain gauge
- Worsted Weight #4 yarn
- Scissors
- Tapestry/Finishing Needle
- Optional: Stitch Markers
Stitches Used
- Dc – double crochet
- Hdc – half double crochet
- Sc – single crochets
- Sl St – slip stitch
- BLO – back loop only
- Join – slip stitch to first st
- Sc2tog – decrease sc – insert hook into st, y/o pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, y/o pull up a loop, y/o and pull through both loops on hook
- Dc2tog – decrease dc – y/o insert hook into st, y/o pull up a loop, y/o pull through 2 loops, y/o insert hook into next st, y/o pull up a loop, y/o pull through 2 loops, y/o pull through 3 remaining loops on hook.
- Foundation sc, see here how to make foundation rows
Gauge
- 4” x 4” square = 9 rows of the pattern (5dc rows, 4sc rows) x 12 stitches
Pattern Notes & Tips
- Pattern is written in U.S. Crochet Terms
- Beginning chain(s) of the row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
- Pattern is worked in vertical continuous rows of the front right panel, back panel, and left front panel. No finishing off on these rows.
- I am a fan of no sew patterns! This pattern will be joining the shoulders to the front or back panels and the border to close as you work them.
- On the rows that join at the shoulders or border turn the work left OVER right. This will keep your next stitch from being twisted. Also, re-adjust the tension on your hook after turning. If you find it hard to see where to place your next join, you could use stitch markers before turning.
- Check your gauge BEFORE starting the Cameo Cardigan. We all hate gauge swatches
- When joining on the sleeve rows, pull your slip stitches tight. This will make the joins less visible. Actually, as a general rule for crocheting, always pull your slip stitches tight. You’ll be amazed at what difference this will make in your work.
- Work the first st in the same st as the join and the ch-1/ch-2, since the chains do not count as a stitch. This will keep your seam straight on the sleeves.
- To secure tails when changing skeins or colors, crochet over the tail then leave a few inches out. Go back and weave in the ends going the opposite direction. This will keep the tails from unraveling.
Doll Cardigan Crochet Pattern
Fits an 18″ doll
Front right panel
Row 1: Foundation sc 22. (22) ch 2 and turn. See here how to make foundation rows.
Row 2: dc in each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Row 3: sc in each st across (22) ch 2 and turn
Row 4: dc in each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Arm Hole Row
Row 5: sc in 14 stitches, ch 8, skip remaining stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 4. (22, including chains)
You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.
Back Panel
Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 4. This will count as ch 2 for row 6. Turn.
Row 6: dc in 8 chains and each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Row 7: sc in each st across. (22) join to the side of the sc from row 3 of the front panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of front panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.
Row 8: dc in each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Row 9: repeat row 7
Join after row 9 to last row’s sc of the front panel (the foundation row). ch 2 and turn. Continue the remainder of the back panel
Row 10: dc in each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Row 11: sc in each st across (22) ch 2 and turn.
Row 12 – 16: repeat rows 10 & 11. Ending with dc row
Arm Hole Row
Row 17: sc in 14 stitches, ch 8, skip remaining stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 16. (22, including chains)
You will now be working the other front panel and slip stitching to the back panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.
Front Left Panel
Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 16. This will count as ch 2 for row 18. Turn.
Row 18: dc in 12 chains and each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Row 19: sc in each st across. (22) join to the side of the sc from row 16 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. (3 sl st total) This will count as ch 2. Turn your work.
Row 20: dc in each st across. (22) ch 1 and turn
Row 21 : Repeat row 19 ending with sl st to side of sc to join shoulder. There will be 3 rows at the neck that will be left “open”. Finish off
Neck/Front Border of the Doll Cardigan
Join to the inside corner of the right front panel. Band is made in horizontal rows, joining to the stitches of the front and back panels to continue the no sew of the pattern.
Chain 5
Row 1: hdc in each chain across in the back bump of the chain. See here how and why to crochet on the back of the chain. (4) join to next st of row 21, pull sl st tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.
Row 2: hdc in BLO of 3 st, hdc in both loops of last st. (4) ch 1 and turn
Row 3: hdc in BLO of each st across. (4) join to next st, pull tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.
Repeat rows 2 & 3 up the front right panel, across the neck, and down the front left panel. Continue the same concept of joining the shoulder for attaching the border around the neck – sl st 1 in sc rows and 2 in ch-2 of dc row.
Last row should end at corner of front left panel. DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to bottom border. If for some reason yours ends on the inside of the border, finish off and attach to the corner of the front left panel.
Bottom Border
Ch 1 and turn to work across the bottom border.
Row 1: ch 1, sc across the 4 hdc. Sc across bottom placing 2 sc at the end of dc rows, 1 sc at the end of sc rows. 1 sc across the other 4 sc. Finish off
Garment is now essentially reversible since every row has been back and forth. They look the same on either side. Choose the side of your liking before starting on the sleeves. You may notice that one side of the joins at the shoulders look “bumpy” from the slip stitches. I prefer to have those on the inside. Or you could keep it as a vest.
Sleeves
Join with slip stitch to bottom of sleeve hole.
Row 1: ch 1, sc 16 times in arm hole. (16) join
Row 2: ch 2, dc around (16) join
Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (15) join.
Row 4: ch 2, dc around. (15)
Row 5: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (14) join.
Row 6: ch 2, dc around. (14)
Row 7: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (13) join.
Row 8: ch 2, dc around. (13)
Row 9: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (12) join.
Row 10: ch 2, dc around. (12)
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (12) Finish off. Weave in ends.
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