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The Cameo Cardigan Adult Medium/Large Crochet Pattern is the second release of the pattern series that will have toddler (maybe baby size) up to 2XL!!!! YAY!!! I am soo excited to share these patterns with you! This is a first clothing pattern for Crochet It Creations, although the idea had been brewing for over 6 months. I have adjusted and changed this pattern so many times and I couldn’t be any happier with the way it turned out.

The Cameo Cardigan in Adult Size Medium/Large is for women size 8-12 or 35-38″ bust. It is a comfy cardi with extra room, so it fits a range of sizes. It will also relax after it is washed.

I first want to say that I tried to keep the pattern simple with basic crochet stitches. I also wanted to eliminate any sewing! In my experience with sewing crochet pieces together, it can be hard to match up. Sometimes things don’t come out just right. So, we will be slip stitching pieces together as we work them!! I have included some photos for guidance. More photos will be included in the PDF file on Ravelry.

As always, if you have questions that come up…just ask me! You could also join my Facebook group to post photos and ask questions! Sometimes it’s easier that way because others may have the same question. Or others could respond to help out.

See the Adult XS/S size here

Find the XL/2XL size here 

Find the CHILD Large 10/12 size here 

Find the CHILD Small 6/8 size here 

Find the Preschool 3/5 here

Find the Toddler 1/2 here

Find the Baby size here 

Purchase the ad-free printable version of the Adult and Child on Ravelry here for a small fee. I greatly appreciate every single pattern purchase, which helps keep this blog going and allowing me to continue offering/designing  free patterns.

Need help with the Cameo Cardigan? See Part 1 of 2 video here from start to completing the body of the cardigan. See part 2 or 2 of the sleeves here

Materials Needed

• K 6.5mm Crochet Hook, or hook to obtain gauge
• Worsted Weight #4 yarn – approx 1250 yards for Med/Lg size
• Scissors
• Tapestry/Finishing Needle
• Optional: Stitch Markers

Stitches Used

• Dc – double crochet
• Hdc – half double crochet
• Sc – single crochet
• Sl St – slip stitch
• BLO – back loop only
• Join – slip stitch to first st
• Foundation sc, see here how to make foundation rows

Gauge

• 4” x 4” square = 9 rows of the pattern (5dc rows, 4sc rows) x 12 stitches. I HIGHLY recommend doing a gauge swatch and matching accordingly.

Pattern Notes & Tips

1. Cameo Cardigan is made to be oversized and comfy. The K hook makes looser stitches. You will get some stretch and it will relax more after washing.
2. Pattern is written in U.S. Crochet Terms
3. Beginning chain(s) of the row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
4. Fit will also depend on yarn used. A less dense yarn (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn, which is in the photo above of Ivory Tweed) will stretch more. A more dense yarn (Red Heart With Love, the pink Cameo color from the XS/S size) will not stretch as much. My gauge was the same for both these yarns. 
5. Pattern is worked in vertical continuous rows of the front right panel, back panel, and left front panel. No finishing off on these rows.
6. I am a fan of no sew patterns! This pattern will be joining the shoulders to the front or back panels and the border to close as you work them.
7. On the rows that join at the shoulders, border, or cuffs, turn the work left OVER right. This will keep your next stitch from being twisted. Also, re-adjust the tension on your hook after turning. If you find it hard to see where to place your next join, you could use stitch markers before turning.
8. Count your stitches on EACH row! This is one of the most important parts of the pattern. The stitch count is in parentheses at the end of each row.
9. Check your gauge BEFORE starting the Cameo Cardigan. We all hate gauge swatches, but it’s important when making clothing. If you are getting more stitches/rows per 4” than the gauge, go up a hook size. If you are not getting enough stitches/rows, then go down a hook size.
10. When joining on the sleeve rows, pull your slip stitches tight. This will make the joins less visible. Actually, as a general rule for crocheting, always pull your slip stitches tight when joining. You’ll be amazed at what difference this will make in your work.
11. Work the first st in the same st as the join and the ch-1/ch-2, since the chains do not count as a stitch. This will keep your seam straight on the sleeves.
12. To secure tails when changing skeins or colors, crochet over the tail then leave a few inches out. Go back and weave in the ends going the opposite direction. This will keep the tails from unraveling. 

 

Cameo Cardigan Size Adult Medium/Large

Size 8 – 12 or bust 35”-38”. Finished measures approximately 28” L x 39” around. Not including the front border that overlaps.

Front right panel

Row 1: Foundation sc 80. (80) ch 2 and turn. See here how to make foundation rows.

Row 2:  dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: sc in each st across (80) ch 2 and turn

Row 4 – 14: Repeat rows 2 & 3 (80) ending with dc row

Pocket Row

Row 15: sc in 15 stitches, ch 15, skip 15 stitches, sc in remaining 50 stitches. (80, including chains) ch 2 and turn

Row 16: dc in each st across, including each chain. (80) ch 1 and turn.

Row 17: sc in each st across. (80) ch 2 and turn

Row 18: dc in each st across (80) ch 1 and turn

Arm Hole Row

Row 19: sc in 55 stitches, ch 25, skip remaining 25 stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 18. (80, including chains)

You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.

Back Panel

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 18. This will count as ch 2 for row 20. Turn.

Row 20: dc in 25 chains and each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 21: sc in each st across. (80) join to the side of the sc from row 17 of the front panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of front panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work. 

Row 22: dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 23 – 37: repeat rows 21 & 22

Join after row 37 to last row’s sc. ch 2 and turn

Row 38: dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 39: sc in each st across (80) ch 2 and turn.

Row 40 – 62: repeat rows 38 & 39. Ending with dc row

Arm Hole Row

Row 63: sc in 55 stitches, ch 25, skip remaining 25 stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 62. (80, including chains)

You will now be working the other front panel and slip stitching to the back panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.

Front Left Panel

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 62. This will count as ch 2 for row 64. Turn.

Row 64: dc in 25 chains and each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Row 65: sc in each st across. (80) join to the side of the sc from row 61 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.

Row 66: dc in each st across. (80) ch 1 and turn

Pocket Row

Row 67: sc in 15 stitches, ch 15, skip 15 stitches, sc in remaining 50 stitches. (80, including chains) join to the side of the sc from the next row back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.

Row 68: dc in each st across, including each chain. (80) ch 1 and turn.

Row 69: sc in each st across. (80) join to the side of the sc from row 61 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.

Row 70 – 81: Repeat rows 68 & 69 ending with sc row and 1 sl st to side of sc to join shoulder. There will be 7 rows at the neck that will be left “open”. Finish off                                

Neck/Front Border

Join to the inside corner of the right front panel. Band is made in horizontal rows, joining to the stitches of the front and back panels to continue the no sew of the pattern. 

Chain 19

Row 1: hdc in each chain across in the back bump of the chain. See here how and why to crochet on the back of the chain. (18) join to next st of row 81, pull sl st tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.

Row 2: hdc in BLO of 17 st, hdc in both loops of last st. (18) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: hdc in BLO of each st across. (18) join to next st, pull tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 up the front right panel, across the neck, and down the front left panel. Continue the same concept of joining the shoulder for attaching the border around the neck – sl st 1 in sc rows and 2 in ch-2 of dc row.

Last row should end at corner of front left panel. DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to bottom border. If for some reason yours ends on the inside of the border, finish off and attach to the corner of the front left panel.

Bottom Border

Ch 1 and turn to work across the bottom border.  

Row 1: ch 1, sc across the 18 hdc. Sc across bottom placing 2 sc at the end of dc rows, 1 sc at the end of sc rows. 1 sc across the other 18 sc. Finish off

Garment is now essentially reversible since every row has been back and forth. They look the same on either side. Choose the side of your liking before starting on the sleeves. You may notice that one side of the joins at the shoulders look “bumpy” from the slip stitches. I prefer to have those on the inside.

Sleeves

Join with slip stitch to bottom of sleeve hole. 

Row 1: ch 1, sc 50 times in arm hole. (50) join

Row 2: ch 2, dc2tog, dc in remaining st around (49) join

Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (48) join.

Row 4: repeat row 2 (47)

Row 5 : repeat row 3 (46)

Row 6: ch 2, dc around. (46)

Row 7 – 38: repeat rows 3 & 6. It will end on dc row with 30 stitches.

Row 39: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (30) Do not finish off.

*For shorter sleeves, end at row 37. For longer sleeves add 2 additional rows.

Sleeve Band

Band works around like a cuff. We will continue the “no sew” of this pattern by joining to row 39.

Ch 7

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across, working in the back bump of the chain. (6) join to 2nd sc from row 39, pull join tight. Sl st to next 2 sc.(3 sl st total) turn

Row 2: sc BLO across the band. (6) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: sc BLO across band. (6) join to next sc from row 39, pull join tight. Sl st to next 2 sc. (3 sl st total)

Row 4 – 19: repeat row 2 and 3 ending with sl st in last st from row 39.

Fold cuff down. Close the cuff by sl st across row 19 and 1 from the inside. To continue the BLO ribbing look and keep the join from not being noticable, sl st in both loops of row 19 and back loop of row 1 where you worked in the “back bump” of the chain. When you fold the cuff back up, you will have even rows of ribbing. FInish off. Weave in ends.

Pockets

From the inside pocket opening of the front panel, join to the TOP of the corner.

Row 1: ch 1, sc 30 times around opening. Join. (30)

Row 2: ch 2, dc in each st around. Join. (30)

Row 3: ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (30)

Row 4 – 13: repeat rows 2 & 3

Close the pocket – Fold the pocket in half, sl st to first st and last st togethr of row 13. Sl st to second st and second to last st together. repeat across to close pocket. Finish off leaving about 5” tail. Sew the bottom corner of the pock to the inside of the front panel. Weave in all ends.

You may want to add a button to the inside of the pocket to keep phone/items from falling out.

See the Adult XS/S size here

Find the XL/2XL size here 

Find the CHILD Large 10/12 size here 

Find the CHILD Small 6/8 here 

Find the Preschool 3/5 here

Find the Toddler 1/2 here

Find the Baby size here 

Purchase the ad-free printable version of all adult and child on Ravelry here for a small fee. I greatly appreciate every single pattern purchase, which helps keep this blog going and allowing me to continue offering/designing free patterns.

Save for later or share with others using the share buttons at the top and bottom of post. If you have any questions please comment below or you can email me at jessica@crochetitcreations.com.

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