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Here it is! The first Cameo Cardigan Crochet Pattern of the Child Sizes by Crochet It Creations!!! I recently posted the Cameo Cardigan Crochet Pattern in 3 adult sizes: XS/S 0-6, Med/Lg 8-12, and XL/2XL 14-20!!! So yes, you can make Women’s cardigans for size 0 to size 20!!! The Cameo Cardigan is a comfy, over-size cardigan that can fit a range of sizes.

And with this Child Large Cameo Cardigan Crochet Pattern you can now make one for child size 10/12! I have seen some photos of your work of the Cameo Cardigan adult sizes on social media and have gotten some great feedback! So far, everyone is saying they are loving the NO SEW of this pattern! And it works up QUICK! Well the child sizes will work up even quicker!

I have eliminated the pockets and the cuffs around the sleeves. Why the pockets? Because in the adult sizes they are worked with a “slit” in the front panels and are hidden on the inside. Well, for the small child sizes, it wouldn’t work too well. So if you need to have pockets, I would suggest to make them separate and sew them on the outside. I plan on adding this as an option into the pattern, but didn’t decide to do that until after I have been crocheting down the child sizes.

So, yes that means there are more child sizes coming! YAY! We will have Child Large 10/12 (this one), Child Small (6/8), Preschool (3/5), Toddler (1/2) and a baby size for 3 months! I CANNOT wait to see photos of all your kiddos and grandkids on Facebook, Instagram, or in our Crochet It Creations Crochet Friends group wearing their Cameo Cardigans! They are going to be so cute!

Find the Adult XS/S Women’s 0-6 Size here

Find the Adult Medium/Large Women’s 8-12 Size here

Find the Adult XL/2XL Women’s 14-20 Size here

Find the Child Small 6/8 here

Find the Preschool Size here

Find the Toddler Size here

Find the Baby Size here

Purchase the Ad-Free, Printable PDF of the Adult and Child sizes together from Ravelry here

Need help with the Cameo Cardigan? See Part 1 of 2 video here from start to completing the body of the cardigan. See Part 2 or 2 of the sleeves here

Materials Needed

K 6.5mm Crochet Hook, or hook to obtain gauge
Worsted Weight #4 yarn – approx 800 yards for Child Large 10/12
Scissors
Tapestry/Finishing Needle
Optional: Stitch Markers

Stitches Used

Dc – double crochet
Hdc – half double crochet
Sc – single crochetS
Sl St – slip stitch
BLO – back loop only
Join – slip stitch to first st
Sc2tog – decrease sc – insert hook into st, y/o pull up a loop, insert hook into next st, y/o pull up a loop, y/o and pull through both loops on hook
Dc2tog – decrease dc – y/o insert hook into st, y/o pull up a loop, y/o pull through 2 loops, y/o insert hook into next st, y/o pull up a loop, y/o pull through 2 loops, y/o pull through 3 remaining loops on hook.
Foundation sc, see here how to make foundation rows

Gauge

4” x 4” square = 9 rows of the pattern (5dc rows, 4sc rows) x 12 stitches. I HIGHLY recommend doing a gauge swatch and matching accordingly.

Pattern Notes & Tips

Cameo Cardigan is made to be oversized and comfy. The K hook makes looser stitches. You will get some stretch and it will relax more after washing.
Pattern is written in U.S. Crochet Terms
Beginning chain(s) of the row DOES NOT count as a stitch.
Fit will also depend on yarn used. A less dense yarn (Hobby Lobby’s I Love This Yarn, which is in the photo above of Ivory Tweed) will stretch more. A more dense yarn (Red Heart With Love, the pink Cameo color) will not stretch as much. My gauge was the same for both these yarns.
Pattern is worked in vertical continuous rows of the front right panel, back panel, and left front panel. No finishing off on these rows.
I am a fan of no sew patterns! This pattern will be joining the shoulders to the front or back panels and the border to close as you work them.
On the rows that join at the shoulders or border turn the work left OVER right. This will keep your next stitch from being twisted. Also, re-adjust the tension on your hook after turning. If you find it hard to see where to place your next join, you could use stitch markers before turning.
Count your stitches on EACH row! This is one of the most important parts of the pattern. The stitch count is in parentheses at the end of each row.
Check your gauge BEFORE starting the Cameo Cardigan. We all hate gauge swatches, but it’s important when making clothing. If you are getting more stitches/rows per 4” than the gauge, go up a hook size. If you are not getting enough stitches/rows, then go down a hook size.
When joining on the sleeve rows, pull your slip stitches tight. This will make the joins less visible. Actually, as a general rule for crocheting, always pull your slip stitches tight. You’ll be amazed at what difference this will make in your work.
Work the first st in the same st as the join and the ch-1/ch-2, since the chains do not count as a stitch. This will keep your seam straight on the sleeves.
To secure tails when changing skeins or colors, crochet over the tail then leave a few inches out. Go back and weave in the ends going the opposite direction. This will keep the tails from unraveling.

Large Child Size

Fits child size 10/12 Measures approximately 23”L x 31” around with 13.5” sleeve. Not including the front border that overlaps

Front right panel

Row 1: Foundation sc 68. (68) ch 2 and turn. See here how to make foundation rows.

Row 2: dc in each st across. (68) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: sc in each st across (68) ch 2 and turn

Row 4 – 14: Repeat rows 2 & 3 (68) *ending with dc row

Arm Hole Row

Row 15: sc in 48 stitches, ch 20 skip remaining stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 14. (68, including chains)

You will now be working the back panel and slip stitching to the front panel to close the shoulder up (making a seam) as you work each row.

Back Panel

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 14. This will count as ch 2 for row 16. Turn.

Row 16: dc in 20 chains and each st across. (68) ch 1 and turn

Row 17: sc in each st across. (68) join to the side of the sc from row 13 of the front panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of front panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. This will count as ch 2. (3 sl st total) Turn your work.

Row 18: dc in each st across. (68) ch 1 and turn

Row 19 – 29: repeat rows 17 & 18

Join after row 29 to last row’s sc of the front panel (the foundation row). ch 2 and turn

Row 30: dc in each st across. (68) ch 1 and turn

Row 31: sc in each st across (68) ch 2 and turn.

Row 32 – 48: repeat rows 30 & 31. Ending with dc row

Arm Hole Row

Row 49: sc in 48 stitches, ch 20, skip remaining stitches. Join to corner of ch-2 from row 48. (68, including chains)

You will now be working the other front panel and slip stitching to the back panel to close the shoulder up as you work each row.

Front Left Panel

Sl st again in the ch-2 space from row 48. This will count as ch 2 for row 50. Turn.

Row 50: dc in 20 chains and each st across. (68) ch 1 and turn

Row 51: sc in each st across. (68) join to the side of the sc from row 47 of the back panel, pull sl st tight. Sl st to the ch-2 of next row of back panel. Sl st again in the ch-2 space. (3 sl st total) This will count as ch 2. Turn your work.

Row 52: dc in each st across. (68) ch 1 and turn

Row 53 – 63: Repeat rows 51 & 52 ending with sc row and 1 sl st to side of sc to join shoulder. There will be 5 rows at the neck that will be left “open”. Finish off

Neck/Front Border

Join to the inside corner of the right front panel. Band is made in horizontal rows, joining to the stitches of the front and back panels to continue the no sew of the pattern.

Chain 17

Row 1: hdc in each chain across in the back bump of the chain. See here how and why to crochet on the back of the chain. (16) join to next st of row 63, pull sl st tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.

Row 2: hdc in BLO of 15 st, hdc in both loops of last st. (16) ch 1 and turn

Row 3: hdc in BLO of each st across. (16) join to next st, pull tight. Sl st in next 2 st, counts as chain for beginning of next row. (3 sl st total) Turn.

Repeat rows 2 & 3 up the front right panel, across the neck, and down the front left panel. Continue the same concept of joining the shoulder for attaching the border around the neck – sl st 1 in sc rows and 2 in ch-2 of dc row.

Last row should end at corner of front left panel. DO NOT FINISH OFF. Continue to bottom border. If for some reason yours ends on the inside of the border, finish off and attach to the corner of the front left panel.

Bottom Border

Ch 1 and turn to work across the bottom border.

Row 1: ch 1, sc across the 16 hdc. Sc across bottom placing 2 sc at the end of dc rows, 1 sc at the end of sc rows. 1 sc across the other 16 sc. Finish off

Garment is now essentially reversible since every row has been back and forth. They look the same on either side. Choose the side of your liking before starting on the sleeves. You may notice that one side of the joins at the shoulders look “bumpy” from the slip stitches. I prefer to have those on the inside. Or you could keep it as a vest!

Sleeves

Join with slip stitch to bottom of sleeve hole.

Row 1: ch 1, sc 40 times in arm hole. (40) join

Row 2: ch 2, dc2tog, dc in remaining st around (39) join

Row 3: ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the remaining st around. (38) join.

Row 4 – 9: repeat row 2 & 3 (ending with 32 st at row 9)

Row 10: ch 2, dc around. (32)

Row 11 – 30: repeat rows 3 & 10. It will end on dc row with 22 stitches.

Row 31: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join (22) Finish off. Weave in ends.

Find the Adult XS/S Women’s 0-6 Size here

Find the Adult Medium/Large Women’s 8-12 Size here

Find the Adult XL/2XL Women’s 14-20 Size here

Purchase the Ad-Free, Printable PDF of the Adult and Child sizes together from Ravelry here

Find the Preschool Size here

Find the Toddler Size here

Find the Baby Size here

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